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Our Materials

Our materials

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The materials we use to create our products are all natural and exquisitely Italian, not were not subjected to noxious chemical treatments, that are forbidden, according to the EU rules. They are among the most precious in nature: silk, wool, cotton, linen and cashmere, chosen because of their noble origin. The par excellence fabric we use to create our ties - bow ties and ascots as well – is the silk. The silk extraction process requires time and work. Once the silkworms are totally inside their cocoons (see picture), these so-called “chrysalis” are killed with steam or very hot water (1). They are soaked in water to remove the glue layer that pasted the cocoon threads. These threads, that have to unrolled with the help of a brush, is about 3000 meter long and is solid as a same diameter steel thread. However, 800 meters at the most, on a quality level, are suitable for a further high quality raw silk manufacturing process. The world center of silk fabric manufacturing is in Como, where we usually go to buy the most precious silks. Silk makes possible a huge variety of creations: from the satin silk tie to the varied tie with different textures (different ways to cross the threads in the warp and in the weave, so different types of structures). Nothing of what an eye or a hand could desire is impossible! Generally we have two silk classifications: the “Printed silk” or “Dyed in piece”, and the “Woven in Jacquard silk” also known as “Yarn Dyed” (2). In the former case, the motif color is printed, impressed on fabric, while in the latter, we obtain the motif by crossing different types of threads. The silk can be pure o mixed with other materials. This way we obtain the “Mogador” if silk is mixed with cotton, or the “Popeline” if mixed with wool. In the latter case, because of the particular type of weaving technique, the silk is on the surface, making the tie extremely soft to the touch, while the wool is under the surface, giving resistance and compactness to our tie. The silk fabric quality assessment is a difficult task, even to qualified professionals. It’s hard to distinguish real silk from synthetic fabric by only looking at the appearance; for this reason our touch (the so-called “hand”) has to help us in assessing: real silk remains attached to the littlest ruggedness of our skin or to our fingertips, while the synthetic fabric is pretty smooth to the touch. An original alternative to the traditional silk tie is the knitted silk tie, whose spreading dates back to the 70’s of the last century, at the same time as the wool knit tie. The silk threads are hand-knitted, giving to the product a particular style that is simple and casual at the same time. What makes a tie particularly beautiful is its triplure or “soul”, the non-visible fabric that internally sustains the tie. Around the triplure is woven the visible fabric. This sustains the knot tightness and allows the ties’ extremities to perfectly fall; they do not have to be gathered or folded. The “soul” has the task to help the tie recovering its shape once the knot is untied. The best triplure are pure wool-made or composed by a mix of wool and cotton.  

Note (1): (Source: Google)

Note (2): (Source: Piccola Enciclopedia della Cravatta – Rizzoli Editore)

 
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